Ajrakh - The Ancient Craft of Block Printing
Ajrakh is a unique form of block printing method on textiles found mostly in Sindh, Pakistan and Ajrakhpur, Kutch district, India.
A – Art of Storytelling through Textiles
J – Journey into the Intricate World of Textile Traditions
R – Resplendent Heritage of Indian Block Printing
A – Artistry of Block Printing which is Timeless
K – Colors and Patterns Come Alive on Fabric
H – Heritage and Art in Every Thread
History of Ajrakh
Over the years, ajrakh have become a symbol of the Sindhi culture and traditions. Ajrakh printing thrived in Indiain the 16th century with the migration of Khatris from the Sindh province to Kutch district.
The king of Kutch acknowledged and recognized the textile art, and indirectly encouraged the migration of Khatris to uninhabited lands in Kutch.
Ultimately, some Khatri printer families migrated to Rajasthan and settled in and around Barmer province of British India, including present-dayGujarat, and excelled at the art of ajrakh printing.
At present, the Khatri community is engrossed in consistently producing Ajrakh printed fabric of supreme quality in Ajrakhpur village in Kutch and also Barmer.
Hand block painting or Ajrakh is an age-old tradition practiced in Ajrakhpur, a village in the Kutch district of Gujarat. The 100-odd families of the village take part in a laborious process that takes up to three weeks to complete.
Textiles are treated with vegetable and mineral colours and the fabric goes through a washing cycle about eight times. But the end result is a beautiful piece of fabric that has also made its way to high-end fashion labels today.
This fine art includes a detailed process of resist-printing and dyeing using various blocks. Today, it is used extensively on saree, Dupatta, stole, turbans, shawls and bedsheets.
Community - Ajrakh craft
Dhamadka was the chief location of ajrakh printing for a considerable span of time due to the favourable source of water. But after the 2001 earthquake, the iron content in water increased heavily and the water turned to be unusable. Thus, the artisans from Dhamadka village shifted to a new base and named it Ajrakhpur. They have taken initiative in harvesting water keeping in view the fragile eco-system.
Water plays a significant role in ajrakh printing. Craftsmen treat the fabric with mordants, dyes, oils, etc. Water impacts everything from the shades and hues of the colours themselves to the success or failure of the complete process. The iron content in water is the decisive factor which determines the quality of the final product.
Ajrakh printing in Sindh, Kutch and Barmer, are almost similar in terms of production technique, motifs and use of colours. This is due to the fact that craftsmen in these areas descend from the same caste-families of the Khatri community who migrated to Kutch and Barmer from Sindh in the 16th century, and who are the descendents of the Indus Valley Civilisation. At present, the Khatri families are distinguished for carrying on with the traditional technique of ajrakh printing.
This Khatri community had been involved in ajrakh printing in the village of Dhamadka long before the destructive earthquake of 2001. All Ajrakh printers were shifted to the new village of Ajrakhpur, which was set up primarily to commemorate the art of Ajrakh printing and its highly proficient artisans. It is chiefly the Khatris who have acquired perfection in this craft, and are carrying on the legacy of traditional technique of their ancestors.
Dye
Eco friendly ingredients which are used for dyes
The ingredients for Ajrakh are all derived from nature, be it herbs and vegetable essence or natural minerals. Some of the common ingredients are wild indigo, pomegranate bark and seeds, and harde. Camel dung, found abundantly in the region, is used as an ingredient to remove starch from the fabric.
It is hard to believe that the artisans use rusted iron to create dye! Scrap iron, jaggery and tamarind is soaked in water for two weeks and then cooked over flame to create the black dye for Ajrakh.
The natural dyes used in Ajrakh printing lends a unique characteristic to the fabric. During summers, it expands the pores of the fabric, making it easy for air to pass through. During winters, the pores of the fabric close, providing warmth. No wonder, they say that Ajrakh is suitable to wear around the year.
Ajrakh blocks
The wooden blocks used in Ajrakh printing are traditionally being carved by experts. Now, many artisans have mastered the art of chiselling teak wood blocks themselves in complex geometrical and intricate floral patterns.
Ajrakh printing process
Ajrakh printing is a complex and labor-intensive process that involves multiple stages. Here is an overview of how Ajrakh printing is traditionally done:
- Washing the Fabric (Saaj) : The fabric, usually cotton or silk, is washed to remove any impurities and prepared for printing. It is soaked in a mixture of water and a natural mordant like alum to enhance dye absorption. The unbleached cloth is washed thoroughly in water or steam treated to remove any impurities from the factory. It is then soaked overnight in a solution of castor oil, soda ash and camel dung. This softens the cloth and the alkaline medium helps in bleaching.
Treating of Cloths (Kasanu) :
In this stage the cloth is dyed in a cold solution of myrobalan (powdered nut of the harde tree). Myrobalan turns the cloth a yellow color and works as a mordant, helping to fix the dyes. The cloth is then calendared, after which it is laid flat to dry in the hot sun.
Block printing of Outline (Khariyanu Stage Known as Rekh) :
A resist of lime and gum Arabic is printed on to the cloth to define the outline of the design. Sometime is done doubled side of the cloth. Artist designs wooden blocks for block printing process. Intricate designs are hand-carved onto wooden blocks. These blocks have patterns in various shapes and sizes, including geometric and floral motifs.
- Resist Printing: The fabric is spread out on a flat printing table, and a resist paste, made from a mixture of gum, lime, and clay, is applied to the areas that need to resist dye. The blocks are dipped into the resist paste and carefully stamped onto the fabric, creating the first layer of patterns.
- First Dyeing: The fabric is then immersed in a dye bath, typically made from natural dyes. Indigo is commonly used for the first dye bath, resulting in a deep blue color. The areas covered with the resist paste do not absorb the dye, creating a resist effect.
- Washing and Drying: After the first dyeing, the fabric is thoroughly washed to remove the resist paste and any excess dye. It is then dried in the sun.
- Block Printing: The fabric is spread out again, and the artisan uses different blocks with various patterns and colors to create layered designs. This process may involve multiple rounds of block printing, with each layer adding more intricate details and colors to the fabric.
- Second and Subsequent Dyeing: After each round of block printing, the fabric is dyed again using different natural dyes to achieve the desired colors. This process of printing and dyeing may be repeated multiple times, with the fabric washed and dried in between each round.
- Final Washing and Finishing: Once all the desired layers and colors are achieved, the fabric undergoes a final washing process to remove any residual dye or paste. It is then dried and ironed to enhance the colors and patterns.
